India sits at the heart of the global textile economy. From cotton farms in Maharashtra to spinning mills in Tamil Nadu and garment factories supplying brands across Europe and the United States, the country is both a manufacturing powerhouse and a fast-growing consumer market. Yet India is also staring at a mounting textile waste problem, one that our current linear model of “make, wear, discard” is ill-equipped to handle.
In theory, circularity promises a textile system where clothes last longer, are reused and repaired, and eventually recycled back into new fibres. However, in practice, India’s journey towards circular textiles reveals a hard truth: sustainable choices still cost more, and the burden of that premium is unevenly shared.

Design first, recycling later
If circular fashion has one clear lesson, it is that recycling cannot fix bad design. Too many garments today are made with complex fibre blends, cheap trims and chemical finishes that make reuse and recycling nearly impossible. For India, where the textile and apparel sector contributes about 2.3% of India’s GDP, this matters enormously.
Designing clothes that last longer and can be easily repaired or recycled is not just an environmental issue, it is an industrial strategy. Better design reduces waste, lowers material losses and creates products with higher long-term value. Yet design decisions are often driven by international buyers demanding low prices and rapid turnaround times, leaving little room for durability or recyclability. If India is serious about circularity, design standards must move up the agenda, not only for exports but also for the domestic market, where fast fashion consumption is rising rapidly.
Ironically, some of the most circular practices already exist in India. Repairing clothes, passing them on, or repurposing old textiles has long been embedded in everyday life. Tailors, repair shops, and informal resale markets together form a vast, decentralised circular economy that operates with minimal waste and maximum value retention. The LiFE (Lifestyle for Environment) Mission seeks to institutionalise and scale these practices by promoting conscious consumption, reuse, and resource efficiency as national priorities. By aligning traditional circular behaviours with LiFE’s behavioural-change framework, India has a unique opportunity to bridge informal ingenuity with formal policy, strengthening circularity while preserving livelihoods and reducing the environmental footprint of the textile sector.
Yet these systems are rarely recognised or supported in formal policy or brand strategies. Instead of building on this advantage, India risks replacing it with a Western-style disposable fashion culture. Strengthening repair services, resale platforms, and quality standards could extend garment life at far lower cost and environmental impact than most recycling technologies.
The missing backbone: collection and sorting
Where India struggles most is in what happens after clothes are discarded. Collection systems for post-consumer textiles are fragmented, informal and poorly documented. Valuable material is often mixed, damaged or exported without traceability.
Advanced recycling technologies, particularly chemical recycling, demand clean, well-sorted feedstock. Without investment in collection, sorting and traceability infrastructure, these technologies cannot scale. Digital product tags and automated sorting facilities are often discussed, but deployment remains limited. This gap explains why India, despite its manufacturing scale, risks being locked out of higher-value recycling pathways unless public and private investment accelerates.
Perhaps the most difficult issue for India’s textile sector is this: recycled fibres often cost more than virgin materials. Mechanical recycling produces lower-quality fibres that are suitable only for limited applications. Chemical recycling can produce near-virgin quality polyester or cellulosics, but it is capital-intensive, energy-hungry and still developing[1]. According to a news article published in the Times of India, in major cities of Indian, like Hyderabad, 750–800 tonnes of discarded clothing are collected daily, but about 40% of this could theoretically be recycled; without proper segregation, most ends up in landfills.
As a result, recycled textiles frequently carry a price premium. Brands may promote sustainability in marketing campaigns, but many remain reluctant to absorb higher material costs. The burden often shifts to suppliers, who already operate on thin margins, or to consumers, who may not be willing to pay more. For a price-sensitive market such as India, this creates a real dilemma. If circular textiles remain a premium product, circularity risks becoming a niche rather than a systemic solution.
This is where government intervention becomes critical. Expecting the market alone to deliver affordable circular textiles is unrealistic. Policies such as extended producer responsibility, minimum recycled-content mandates and green public procurement can help create stable demand and reduce price volatility. According to IMARC Groups, the textile recycling market in India was valued at around USD 328 million in 2024 and is projected to grow, reaching approximately USD 427 million by 2033 as sustainable practices gain traction.

India’s waste management rules serve as a starting point, but recent discussions by the Ministry of Textiles on ESG in textiles underscore the importance of enforcement and clarity. Without strong ESG-aligned policy signals, investments in recycling remain risky and recycled fibres struggle against cheaper virgin alternatives. There is also a growing concern about confusing activity with impact, not all recycling is environmentally beneficial if it is energy-intensive or chemically hazardous. Embedding life-cycle assessment within ESG frameworks is essential to ensure circular solutions genuinely reduce emissions, water use, and pollution rather than shifting impacts elsewhere.
This matters particularly for India, where environmental burdens and social costs are often borne by vulnerable communities. Circularity cannot succeed if it ignores labour conditions in recycling chains or displaces informal workers without alternatives.
A pragmatic path forward
India does not need to leap straight into high-tech solutions. The most effective pathway is a layered one. Start with better design, strengthen reuse and repair, build robust collection systems, and deploy recycling technologies where they make economic and environmental sense.
Above all, India must confront the pricing question head-on. Circular textiles will not scale if recycled fibres remain a luxury. Closing that gap requires coordinated action from brands, policymakers and investors, and a willingness to accept that sustainability, at least initially, costs money.
The real question is not whether India can afford circular textiles; it is whether it can afford the long-term costs of staying linear?
(Views expressed are the author’s own and do not reflect those of ICRIER)
[1] Juanga-Labayen, J. P., Labayen, I. V., & Yuan, Q. (2022). A Review on Textile Recycling Practices and Challenges. Textiles, 2(1), 174-188. https://doi.org/10.3390/textiles2010010
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